Return to Fashion | Anya Ayoung Chee

Anya Ayoung Chee is a fashion designer, entrepreneur, activist, and winner of Project Runway Season 9. In 2008 she competed at the Miss Universe pageant in Vietnam for her native country Trinidad and Tobago, during which she had the opportunity to design some of her wardrobe. In 2009 she launched her first collection Pilar, named after her younger brother. Several years later, Anya inspired millions when she won the 9th season of the popular US television series, Project Runway. She then launched her eponymous womenswear line geared toward the resort wear market.

In recent years Anya retreated from designing her own clothing line in order to open and manage a co-working space (HOME), boutique (Exhibit A) and cafe (HOME Cafe) in Trinidad. The Anya Ayoung Chee - Limited Edition brand, marks her return to designing a line of her own.

COAL caught up with Anya, and this is what she had to share:

Q. What inspires your designs the most—art, nature, culture, or something else?

I’d say it’s a dynamic mix, but what really tugs at my heartstrings is our culture. There’s an undeniable spirit in our region—a certain rhythm, color, and resilience that is constantly inspiring my work. I’m endlessly fascinated by the stories we hold in our collective culture and by the beautiful contrast between our natural landscapes and urban environments. That blend of history, nature, and the carnival essence of Trinidad fuels so much of what I create. And of course, I’m always inspired by the people I encounter and the stories they share. Fashion, for me, is storytelling, so every piece is my way of capturing and honoring that essence.

Q. Can you walk us through your design process from initial concept to final product?

My design process is highly organic—it starts with a spark, a feeling, or even a fragment of a memory. I often begin by immersing myself in the textures, colors, and scenes that resonate with the story I want to tell. From there, I sketch out ideas, exploring how the piece can come alive not just visually but also in terms of movement and experience.

Once I have a vision, I think about how it aligns with functionality and sustainability. I work closely with local seamstresses and artisans, and we bring that initial concept to life, step-by-step. I love collaborating with them; they bring such skill and creativity, and it feels like we’re weaving our shared energy into each piece. The result is a blend of personal expression and community craftsmanship, making each product feel like a celebration of both art and purpose.

Q. How do you approach sustainability in your collections?

Sustainability is central to my approach—it’s not just a consideration but a priority. I’m committed to supporting local production, working with artisans and seamstresses within the Caribbean to ensure we’re building a truly circular economy. This commitment drives me to constantly explore materials and methods that honor the planet and minimize waste.

My focus on sustainability also extends into social impact. Through projects like Spool, we’re training women from both Trinidad and Venezuela in fashion production. It’s about giving back and creating a pathway for economic empowerment. For me, true sustainability means that each piece I create isn’t just responsible environmentally but also contributes meaningfully to the lives of others.

Q. Do you have a signature style or recurring theme in your work?

Yes, there’s definitely a strong Caribbean influence in everything. I love bold, playful pieces that make you feel like you’re at a festival, pieces that mirror everyday living, the man or woman on the street. . But beyond that, my work often explores the dualities of life: joy and sorrow, tradition and modernity, personal and collective. I’m drawn to creating pieces that reflect our collective resilience and vibrant history, yet feel effortless and wearable. I also love working with fabrics that flow and move, as if they’re alive, which brings a certain energy and dynamism that’s a big part of my signature style.

Q. What has been the biggest challenge you’ve faced in your fashion career?

One of the biggest challenges has been navigating the lack of infrastructure and resources for fashion in the Caribbean. It’s no secret that the journey has been far from linear—there’s often limited access to the materials, financing, and networks that many international designers take for granted.

Another significant challenge was the transition from being a designer to embracing the role of a social entrepreneur. Balancing creative work with the operational demands of business was a steep learning curve, but each challenge shaped my perspective and strengthened my resolve to build something lasting for the Caribbean creative community. Every setback is an opportunity to innovate, and that resilience has become a fundamental part of my journey.

Q. Have you collaborated with other artists or designers? If so, how did that influence your work?

Absolutely, and each collaboration has brought such richness to my work. I’ve been fortunate to partner with incredible creatives across fashion, carnival, and social impact. Collaborating with others opens up a new world of ideas, methods, and inspiration. It pushes me out of my comfort zone and into spaces I might not have explored alone. My recent work with Spool, for example, alongside Hasani of Caesars Army, merges carnival culture and fashion production in ways I hadn’t previously imagined, adding depth and cultural relevance to each piece we create.

Q. What do you think is the future of fashion in the next decade?

I believe the future of fashion is both digital and deeply sustainable. We’re seeing a shift towards digital wearables, NFTs, and a virtual marketplace that lets people express themselves without producing physical waste. But equally important is a return to thoughtful, slow fashion where pieces are cherished, valued, and built to last.

For the Caribbean, I see tremendous potential for technology to open doors, bringing local designers to global audiences while honoring our unique heritage and commitment to community. We’re creating a space that isn’t just about fashion—it’s about legacy, impact, and authenticity. In the next decade, I hope fashion becomes less about fleeting trends and more about meaningful stories, crafted with care and designed to endure.

Q. What advice would you give to someone looking to break into the fashion industry?

Be prepared to bring your whole self into it and stay true to your unique voice. The scene’s tough, but your unique flair—that’s your superpower. Always be willing to learn—never assume you know it all because this field is constantly evolving, especially now with the rise of digital and sustainable fashion.

And don’t be afraid of failure. Every setback is part of the process, shaping you into a more resilient and capable designer. Seek out mentors, build relationships, and above all, stay connected to your purpose. If you’re passionate and driven, that will shine through, and people will be drawn to your work because it’s a genuine extension of who you are.